Weekend getaway from Bogota · #1 of 10
Villa de Leyva
Colombia's best-preserved colonial town: cobbled streets, the country's largest plaza, fossil museums, Casa Terracota and desert pools at Pozos Azules. The classic overnight escape for Bogotanos.
Ask any Bogotano: Villa de Leyva is the ultimate weekend escape. It has been a protected national monument since 1954, wrapping whitewashed houses and cobblestones around Colombia's grandest plaza. Beyond the town, a sun-baked valley hiding ancient fossils, a giant clay house, and glowing blue pools awaits. Trust me, stay at least one night to watch the streets come alive once the day-trippers head home.
Getting there
It is about 165 km of scenic road. Seriously, hit the road before 7 AM on Saturday or you will spend your morning crawling through toll backups on the 45A.
Expect to pay around COP 24,000. Snag your ticket early since morning buses sell out fast. Pro tip: if you miss it, take a bus to Tunja and grab a quick 1-hour minibus from there; they run every 15 minutes.
Day 1 - Saturday
Cobblestones, clay houses, and mountain sunsets- 17:00 AMDrive
Drive north out of Bogota
Escape the city buzz up the Autopista Norte into the breezy Boyaca highlands. Watch the landscape soften into dusty ochre hills and green olive groves as you descend into the valley.
📍 Bogota, Colombia
Tip · Grab a quick coffee in Choconta if you need it, but try to power through. A fantastic town brunch is waiting!
- 210:30 AMSight
First stroll across Plaza Mayor
Step onto 14,000 square meters of beautifully uneven cobblestones. Colombia's largest plaza is framed by gorgeous 400-year-old colonial walls. Pick a corner and start exploring the tiny alleys.
📍 Plaza Mayor, Villa de Leyva
Tip · At 2,140 meters up, the mountain sun is no joke. Lather on that sunscreen before you start walking!
- 311:30 AMSight
Parish Church of Our Lady of the Rosary
This iconic 1604 church holds court right on the main plaza. Step inside to check out the stunning colonial baroque architecture and the shimmering, gold-leaf wooden altarpieces.
📍 Iglesia Parroquial de Nuestra Senora del Rosario, Villa de Leyva
- 412:30 PMFood
Long Boyacense lunch near the plaza
Time for a classic Boyacense feast! Snag a table in the shady arcades or side streets off the plaza and order the local specialty: slow-cooked gallina criolla or a steaming bowl of sancocho soup.
📍 Plaza Mayor, Villa de Leyva
Tip · Don't play chicken with lunch! Weekend spots fill up fast after 1 PM, so beat the rush and eat early.
- 52:00 PMSight
Casa Terracota, the house baked from clay
Explore this 500-square-meter clay house built by Octavio Mendoza. It is basically the world's largest piece of pottery, with a whimsical, Gaudi-style vibe that is incredibly fun to wander through.
📍 Casa Terracota, Villa de Leyva
Tip · Drop by any day between 8:30 AM and 5:30 PM. Tickets are COP 43,000 on Saturdays and Sundays.
- 63:30 PMActivity
Pozos Azules desert pools
Wander through a cactus-filled desert to find these artificial pools. The vibrant blue-green water constantly shifts hues depending on the clouds above. Remember: photos only, no swimming allowed!
📍 Pozos Azules, Villa de Leyva
Tip · These pools sit on private property, so you will need to pay a small entry fee at the front gate.
- 75:00 PMActivity
Climb to the Sagrado Corazon mirador
Follow the white arrows from the end of Calle 12 up a steep, 1-hour trail. Your reward is a breathtaking golden-hour view over the town's red-tiled roofs and the entire sweep of the valley.
📍 Mirador Sagrado Corazon, Villa de Leyva
Tip · If it has been raining, skip this one. Those steep, rocky segments get incredibly slippery when wet.
- 88:00 PMFood
Dinner and a nightcap on the plaza
Cozy up in a candlelit restaurant or a quiet bar along the plaza or Carrera 9. Wrap up with dessert and local coffee. Don't forget to look up; these high-altitude night skies are incredibly clear.
📍 Plaza Mayor, Villa de Leyva
- 910:00 PMStay
Overnight in a colonial posada
Tuck in at a charming boutique hotel or whitewashed inn just steps from the plaza. Many of these heritage spots feature lovely, flower-filled inner courtyards that feel like secret sanctuaries.
📍 Villa de Leyva, Boyaca
Tip · Since this is a favorite weekend escape, rooms book out early. Snag yours well in advance, especially for holidays.
Day 2 - Sunday
Prehistoric giants and country roads- 108:30 AMFood
Pastries at the French bakery
Kick off the day at Panaderia Francesa on Calle 10, a local legend for authentic French breads and pastries. Enjoy breakfast here and grab an extra almond croissant for later!
📍 Panaderia Francesa, Villa de Leyva
- 119:30 AMSight
Paleontological Museum
Explore a massive collection of 441 Cretaceous fossils unearthed right in the valley. The venue is just as cool: a gorgeous colonial estate dating all the way back to 1570.
📍 Museo Paleontologico, Villa de Leyva
Tip · Keep an eye on the clock; they are open from 9 AM to 3 PM on Sundays.
- 1211:00 AMSight
El Fosil and the Kronosaurus
In 1977, local farmers struck prehistoric gold: the most complete Kronosaurus boyacensis fossil ever found. They built the museum right around the massive marine reptile skeleton where it lay.
📍 Museo El Fosil, Villa de Leyva
Tip · Grab a taxi from the main plaza for the quick 10-minute drive toward Santa Sofia. Have the driver wait to take you back!
- 1312:15 PMSight
El Infiernito Muisca site
Check out this ancient Muisca archaeological site in the desert, packed with phallic stone monoliths dedicated to fertility. It is easily one of the most unique and memorable ruins around.
📍 El Infiernito, Villa de Leyva
- 141:30 PMFood
Farmhouse lunch on the valley road
Follow the smoke trails and the rows of parked 4x4 jeeps to a rustic country restaurant on the valley road. Sundays are all about slow-cooked, hearty Boyacense comfort food.
📍 Villa de Leyva, Boyaca
- 153:00 PMSight
Casa Museo Antonio Narino
Step inside the final home of Colombia's independence hero, Antonio Narino. This beautifully preserved colonial house is now a museum showcasing his personal artifacts and letters.
📍 Casa Museo Antonio Narino, Villa de Leyva
Tip · They close for a lunch break, so plan to arrive after they reopen at 2 PM.
- 164:30 PMDrive
Drive back to Bogota
Start heading south by late afternoon. Trust me, the Sunday evening crawl back into Bogota along the Autopista Norte gets notoriously congested once the sun goes down.
📍 Villa de Leyva, Boyaca
Tip · Top off your gas tank in Sachica or Chiquinquira so you do not have to worry about stops on the highway.
Where to eat
This is the region's ultimate comfort food: flavorful, free-range hen roasted to perfection or stewed in a hearty sancocho. You will find it in almost every traditional spot off the main square.
A legendary Calle 10 bakery serving up authentic French baguettes and decadent pastries. It is hands down the best breakfast spot in town.
Cosy up near the bell tower with a cup of rich, 100 percent Colombian coffee. The front-row seats are unmatched for watching the world drift across the plaza.
When to go
Expect gorgeous, sunny days and the magical festival of lights in December. Just keep in mind that crowds are huge and hotel rates hit their peak.
Watch the sky erupt in color during the National Wind and Kite Festival, when the valley's powerful gusts carry hundreds of kites over the plaza.
Perfect if you want a quieter, greener escape. You might get a brief afternoon shower, but the semi-desert weather means it clears up in a flash.
Good to know
- Lock down your hotel room two to three weeks in advance for regular weekends, and even earlier for puentes (holiday long weekends) when the town completely fills up.
- Leave the heels at home. The historic cobblestones are incredibly uneven and are notorious ankle-twisters, so wear sturdy, comfortable shoes.
- No set of wheels? No worries! Local tour operators along Carrera 9 can get you to El Fosil, El Infiernito, and Pozos Azules, or rent you a bicycle or a horse.
- To break up the road trip, stop at the spectacular Zipaquira Salt Cathedral, located just a short detour off the main route north.
