Weekend getaway from New York · #4 of 10
The Catskills: Phoenicia & Woodstock
Laid-back mountain hamlets two hours northwest: tube the Esopus Creek in Phoenicia, hike to waterfalls and big-view ledges, then browse Woodstock's galleries and shops along Tinker Street.
Think of this loop as the ultimate Catskills mashup. You get Phoenicia, a laid-back creekside haven for tubers and hikers, and Woodstock, a legendary, traffic-light-free arts colony. Toss in epic waterfalls, rugged mountain ledges, and top-tier mountain eats, and you have got the perfect weekend.
Getting there
This is your best bet for maximum freedom. It is the only way to link Phoenicia, the waterfalls, and Woodstock in a single trip. Pro tip: sneak out before the Friday rush hits.
Buses roll out daily toward Woodstock and Route 28, which is great if you plan to stay put. Just heads up: you will miss out on the waterfall hopping without a set of wheels.
Day 1
Rushing creeks, epic ledges, and diner gold in Phoenicia- 18:00 AMDrive
Drive up into the mountains
Hit I-87 north and watch the skyline fade. Once you pass Kingston and climb Route 28 into Catskill Park, say goodbye to your cell service and hello to the trees.
📍 Kingston, New York
Tip · Grab your snacks and fill the tank in Kingston. Once you hit Route 28, spots to stop get pretty sparse.
- 210:30 AMFood
Brunch at Phoenicia Diner
This 1962 roadside icon serves up killer cast-iron skillets, fluffy pancakes, and strong coffee. You will find locals and weekenders sharing booth space in peace.
📍 Phoenicia Diner, Phoenicia
Tip · The weekend wait is no joke. Put your name down, grab a coffee, and kick back on the lawn.
- 312:00 PMActivity
Tube the Esopus Creek
The ultimate hot-weather ritual. Grab a tube from a local outfitter, hop on their shuttle, and spend the afternoon splashing down the Esopus's playful rapids.
📍 Esopus Creek, Phoenicia
Tip · Do not forget water shoes and dry clothes for after, you will thank me later.
- 43:00 PMActivity
Hike to Giant Ledge
Hands down the best effort-to-reward ratio in the region. It is a steady climb to massive stone ledges overlooking the Panther Mountain wilderness. Plan for 3 hours.
📍 Giant Ledge Trailhead, Phoenicia
Tip · Not feeling the hike? Wander Phoenicia's cute Main Street or check out the old Empire State Railway Museum.
- 56:30 PMFood
Dinner at Peekamoose
Often called the Gramercy of the Catskills, this chef-driven Big Indian roadhouse whips up incredible farm-to-table plates just a short drive up Route 28.
📍 Peekamoose Restaurant, Big Indian
Tip · Make a reservation early. This is the one meal you absolutely cannot miss around here.
- 6NightStay
Stay at the Graham & Co.
A cool, retro-chic motel with minimalist rooms, a pool, and fire pits under the stars. It is rustic but super comfortable, and you can walk right into town.
📍 The Graham & Co., Phoenicia
Day 2
Cascading falls and bohemian Woodstock vibes- 78:30 AMSight
Morning at Kaaterskill Falls
Head over to Kaaterskill Clove for a quick, steep trek to New York's iconic two-tier waterfall. It inspired 19th-century painters and is still a total stunner.
📍 Kaaterskill Falls, Haines Falls
Tip · Rise and shine early. The tiny trailhead lots are usually packed to the brim by mid-morning.
- 811:00 AMDrive
Scenic drive to Woodstock
Cruise down from the clove and follow Route 212 into Woodstock. It is the legendary Colony of the Arts, complete with its famous, bustling village green.
📍 Woodstock, New York
Tip · Street parking is tough. Skip the headache and head straight for the free public lots off Rock City Road.
- 912:00 PMFood
Lunch at Silvia
Woodstock's crown jewel. Expect wood-fired, veggie-centric magic in a gorgeous space by the green. For something quicker, grab bagels and coffee at The Mud Club nearby.
📍 Silvia, Woodstock
- 101:30 PMActivity
Browse Tinker Street
Explore the town's vibrant main strip. Check out Candlestock's iconic candle tower, browse the Golden Notebook, hit the flea market, and catch the drum circle on the green.
📍 Tinker Street, Woodstock
- 113:00 PMSight
Opus 40 sculpture park
A short drive to Saugerties reveals a mind-blowing 6.5-acre earthwork. One man spent 37 years building this stone labyrinth of ramps, pools, and a massive monolith.
📍 Opus 40, Saugerties
Tip · They are open Thursday to Sunday (plus holiday Mondays) from 11 AM to 5:30 PM. Leave your furry friends at home.
- 125:00 PMFood
Last round at Station Bar & Curio
Toast to a great weekend at this quirky, vintage-stuffed spot inside an old station house. It is the perfect final pit stop before heading home.
📍 Station Bar and Curio, Woodstock
- 136:30 PMDrive
Drive home
Hop on Route 212, catch the Thruway at Saugerties, and enjoy a smooth two-and-a-half-hour drive back to the city, trail dust and all.
📍 Saugerties, New York
Tip · Not ready to leave? Sneak in the Overlook Mountain fire-tower hike just above town if you have got any energy left.
Where to eat
An absolute classic on Route 28. Come for the sizzling cast-iron skillets, stay for the friendly, mix-of-everyone vibe.
A gorgeous, chef-led roadhouse in Big Indian offering spectacular farm-to-table cooking in a rustic setting.
Woodstock's go-to for wood-fired plates and fresh, seasonal flavors in a beautifully styled dining room.
A must-visit local hangout for excellent coffee and wood-fired bagels to kickstart your morning.
When to go
Prime time for tubing down the Esopus and dipping in swimming holes. Just be sure to lock down your lodging early.
The autumn colors along the mountain roads are jaw-dropping. Weekends get packed, so try a midweek escape if you can.
Rushing spring snowmelt means Kaaterskill Falls is at its roaring best. Expect some muddy trails, though.
Super peaceful, snowy villages and cozy fireside vibes. If you are hiking to the falls, pack microspikes for safety.
Good to know
- You will definitely want a car to explore the full loop. The bus from Port Authority is fine, but only if you plan to stay put.
- Trailhead parking is a hot commodity. Hit the trails or the falls before 9 AM on busy weekends to score a spot.
- Spots in Phoenicia and Woodstock fill up fast in summer and fall. Book your stay and that Peekamoose dinner table well in advance.
- Woodstock is super walkable. Ditch the car in the free public lot off Rock City Road and explore on foot.
